Mango Pies, Sabayon, and Fresh Figs.
Try finding one picture from my childhood of my family and I eating this pie, and you will be without. There’s not a single shot. And I’m pretty sure I’m alright with this, here’s why.
So this is the kind of situation where even if you are only a small family of three, or four, including your chubby waddling dachshund that follows you’re every move and eats anything, if you’re including that guy too, than this pie will most likely only be in your kitchen for no more than 30 minutes after serving it, and especially so if you’ve never had it before.
The thing just starts to disappear, quickly. Slices seem to keep getting lifted and plated away. It’s nuts. And if you’re that guilty type and can’t claim a piece but end up going in any way (thinking you’ll just have a little bite-full,) someone will soon find you, catch you and your beloved fork, and snap at you for the stealth attacks you just made at snagging away layers of the sabayon coated mangoes from the remaining. That was me the whole time, putting a dent in it and getting told, and truly at it without that guilt too. There was no time for that.
It’s an irresistible, dangerous, addicting, can’t get enough item, that you and your family could come to love and know well. And mine seriously has. It’s just that communal, but how is something like this not? Food, pie, cream, butter, mangoes, food! Ah, food!
This is why you’re here, this is why I am here! So get at me, you could potentially have a food buddy for eternity. I promise you, all I want to do is genuinely talk to you about food, get excited about it, cook, dance, drink beer, drink amazing wine and fancy dessert wines, eat finally, talk about it, feed the cutie dachshund, rest from the coma of it all, eat again..
And if you are able to do this with me, I will love you forever. I swear It’s my favorite thing to do in life. Okay, I put that out there, very seriously. Now, let’s get back into this pie.
Here is why there is not a picture in sight. It would disappear way before the idea of a camera could possibly come into the situation. And having to use one of those disposable camera’s our family always used to have around? No way. Camera ready at all?
Pie is gone.
Trance from a crater of mangoes and cream that somehow landed on the surface of your kitchen counter with this special, oh so special taste, that just made your mind completely blow back out of your head and back into it again. It’s the pie that relatives, family, friends, co-workers, strangers, ask you where you found such a thing and where and when can they get their hands going in the direction towards one.
I knew I had to make this and share it with you, and then proceed to find some of these to add to the theme.
Over the last twenty years, this fancy looking fresh fruit tart and classic french style dessert, has adapted the name “mango pie.” I suppose it was just easier on the brain for us to say it that way and it stuck. Though, it is not your typical rustic pie to the eyes or in flavor. Rather, it’s the most delicate looking, lightest tasting, and most genius combination of textures and flavors in a very confident tart form.
It shares with it a perfectly flaky and buttery, soft, and slighty sweet tart shell crust, followed by an amazing layer of sabayon cream made with both marsala and sauvignon blanc wine (my favorite dessert cream in the whole world).
And then there are the mangoes. Thin slivers of mangoes swirl in towards the center as if it were a rose. A luscious rose of mangoes.
The precision here seems fussy because it is, but the finished and elegant look to this pie is big. Major pay off, and even on the palette. It is one of the best, most heavenly things I have ever tasted or have had the pleasure of sharing.
For the crust of the larger tarts, I used a basic sweet tart crust recipe and for the mini mango pie you see here, I made a coconut oil oat crust with whole wheat flour and oat bran. It turned out super crispy and flaky and it’s definitely worth a go, very tasty.
It was the time to get into this very nostalgic recipe, I was just back home in California with family and the dachshund I grew up with, I found some mangoes on sale at the market, and I knew what I had to do. I was on a mission to make these beautiful tarts.
The real inspiration behind this post and recipe dates back to the womb. Mom, Barbie B. was eating lots of these mango pies while she was pregnant with me and that’s probably why we love them so much together. Her and her endlessly huge blonde concrete poof hair of the 80’s would vanish off during the lunch hour to this special little cafe in Solana Beach called Pasta Pronto, and that is where our first mango pie was shared. She would catch a table often and sit there just killing slices of this pie for us. Oh wow, so thankful for those bright beginnings. Who knows what I could have been like without knowing about something this good.. Perhaps not even a food fanatic? It all started from those separate missions she’d take. And now, we have this amazing pie in place twenty-four years later.
Special stories with food are in place everywhere and in everyone and that’s what I love most. Have a few good ones for me?
The truth behind this pie is this: It’s the item you show up with to holiday events and gatherings that relatives, family, friends, co-workers, and strangers taste and ask you where you found such a thing and where and when they can get their hands going in the direction towards one. For years we would buy them at Pasta Pronto but after graduating from culinary school and cooking in restaurants and cooking and baking at home a lot, I just fell into figuring out a recipe. It’s perfect. The steps were fairly straight forward in what I needed to do. And I truly just wanted to make a post of it for the sake of our tradition and for how we missed this beautiful flavor.
Here we have it, my childhood mango pie! A very special pie from me to you. So hopefully when you maybe get around to whipping out this recipe you’ll be thinking of two things: a super pregnant blondie from the 80’s with killer hair, eating her own weight in mango pies, and a super obsessed food nerd who can’t stop talking about it.
Hoping everyone is excited for October’s gorgeous arrival. I never want this month to end!
Love to you all!!
Mango and Sabayon Cream Tart
Makes enough for two 8′-10′ tarts
1 Basic Sweet Tart Crust Recipe (or 1 Coconut Oat Bran Tart Crust Recipe)
1 Sabayon Cream Recipe
5-6 large organic mangoes, (organic mangoes are most likely creamier and less fibrous)
peeled, cut along sides of pit, and sliced
Fresh berries, figs, mint leaves, or edible flowers
Assembly of mango pie:
To begin assembly of mango pie, on a cutting board, with a sharp peeler, peel the mangoes entirely of their skins and cut along the sides of their pits. With the halves of each mango, slice very fine slices about an 1/8 of an inch thick. Reserve slices in orderly rows for easy pick up and assembly on a separate plate. Once tart shells are completely baked off and cool, transfer shells to the desired serving platters or plates. Spread a generous layer of the reserved sabayon cream until even and smooth. Take the mango slices and start on the outer rim of the pie and work completely around until a slice of mango has taken residence against the circumference of the entire pie crust wall. Continue the alternating the mango slices until they reach the center of the pie, as if it were a rose.
Garnish with fresh fruit, mint leaves, fresh flowers.
Serve immediately. Store covered and refrigerated for up to 3-4 days.
`Basic Sweet Tart Crust
Recipe adapted and altered from Mark Bittman
Makes enough for two 8′-10′ tarts
2 1/2 cups all-purpose flour, plus more for rolling
1 teaspoon salt
4 tablespoons confectioner’s sugar
20 tablespoons (2 1/2 sticks) frozen or cold unsalted butter, cut into chunks
6 tb ice water, plus more if necessary
2 egg yolks
*Tin foil and baking beans or pie weights for blind baking
Combine the flour, salt, and sugar in the container of a food processor and pulse once or twice. Add the butter all at once; process until the mixture is uniform, about 10 seconds (do not over-process). Add the egg and process another few seconds.
Put the mixture in a bowl and add 3 tablespoons ice water; mix with your hands until you can form the dough into a ball, adding another tablespoon or 2 of ice water if necessary (if you overdo it and the mixture becomes sodden, add a little more flour). Form into a ball, wrap in plastic, and freeze for 10 minutes or refrigerate for at least 30 minutes). (You can refrigerate for up to a couple of days, freeze for up to a couple of weeks.)
Sprinkle a countertop with flour and put the dough on it; sprinkle the top with a little flour. Use a rolling-pin to roll with light pressure, from the center out. If the dough is sticky, add a little flour (if it continues to become sticky, and it’s taking you more than a few minutes to roll it out, refrigerate or freeze again). Roll, adding flour and rotating and turning the dough as needed; use ragged edges of dough to repair any tears, adding a drop of water while you press the patch into place.
Cut a piece of tin foil large enough to cover the tart crust. Fold it in half and cut a half-moon (making a circle) from the foil. It should resemble a circle of foil. Place foil into tart shell and fill and cover crust with pie weights or any baking beans. (I used kidney beans) Bake at 350 for 15 to 20 minutes. Until golden brown.
4 egg yolks
1/4 cup granulated sugar
5 tb marsala wine
4 tb white wine (sauvignon blanc is great!)
1/2 cup heavy cream
Prepare an ice bath in a bowl large enough to contain another mixing bowl used for making the sabayon base.
In a large stainless-steel or Pyrex mixing bowl, whisk the egg yolks and sugar together until they start to lighten in color and thicken. The whisk should leave a trail behind in the mixture.
Set the mixing bowl over a pot partly filled with simmering water big enough to hold the mixing bowl at the top. Without letting the bottom of the bowl reach or touch the water. Whisk mixture constantly without stopping while slowly whisking in both wines. Make sure to not let the mixture cook too long without whisking, process can scramble quickly. Continue whisking until egg and wine mixture has thickened and become pale yellow in color. It should be double, almost triple from its original size. Remove from the stove and place bowl into the ice bath and continue to whisk until cooking process has slowed and the mixture is cool.
In another mixing bowl, pour the cold cream into the bowl and begin whisking until medium to firm peaks form. With a spatula, add the whipped cream to the cooled sabayon mixture and slowly fold in the cream in until both have completely been incorporated. Transfer mixture into desired serving bowl or storage container to later spread a layer into the tart shell. Chill at least 1 hour before serving. If desired, serve the sabayon separately.
Coconut Oat Bran Tart Crust
Makes enough for two 8′-10′ tarts
1 1/4 cup oat bran, run through a food processor until fine
1/2 tsp salt
2/3 cup whole wheat flour
2/3 cup ap flour
5 tb confectioner’s sugar
2 egg yolks
1 1/2 cup coconut oil, softened
5 tb ice water
In a food processor, pulse the oat bran flakes until it resembles a course flour. In a separate bowl, combine all flours and the salt together.
In a food processor, add the sugar, egg yolks, and softened coconut oil. Pulse mixture until the ingredients have come together. Add the dry ingredients to the processor and the ice water. Pulse until dough just comes together and it’s ingredients are incorporated. A crumbly and slightly wet consistency forms.
For a flaky tart crust, chill the coconut oil so it’s cold but not completely solid, about 1 hour. Break coconut oil into flour when processing to form large fat pockets. For a more even, mealy, and less fragile tart crust work the coconut oil into the flour.
Wrap in plastic wrap and refrigerate 20-30 minutes before rolling out.
Dough can store 3-4 days in refrigerator. Or up to 2 months in the freezer.